New Taqueria on Elm Street Is Already One of Millbrook's Hottest Tables

MILLBROOK, June 3 — If you've driven down Elm Street lately and noticed a line snaking out of a bright yellow storefront around lunchtime, you've spotted La Paloma Taqueria. Opened just six weeks ago by siblings Rosa and Emilio Fuentes, the 28-seat restaurant has quickly become one of the most talked-about new spots in town — and after a Tuesday afternoon visit, this reporter can confirm the hype is very much justified. The Fuentes family hails from Oaxaca, and that regional influence shows up clearly and deliciously on every plate.

What to Order

The menu is tight and focused, which is exactly how it should be. The birria tacos — three to an order, served with a rich consommé for dipping — are as good as anything you'd find at a dedicated birria spot in a much larger city. The tlayuda, a large, crisped tortilla topped with black bean paste, Oaxacan cheese, and your choice of protein, is a must-order and easily shareable. Don't sleep on the agua frescas, either: the tamarind version is bracingly tart and perfectly sweetened. Rosa Fuentes, who handles most of the cooking, said the recipes come straight from her grandmother. "We didn't change anything," she said simply. "Why would we?"

• Birria tacos (3): $13, served with consommé
• Tlayuda: $14, choice of chicken, chorizo, or veggie
• Tamales (2): $9, made fresh daily — sell out fast
• Agua fresca: $4, rotating flavors
• Hours: Tuesday–Sunday, 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. (or until sold out)

The space itself is warm and cheerful, painted in yellows and deep blues with hand-painted tile accents that Rosa said came from her family's home village. Seating is limited, so arriving early is strongly advised — by 12:30 on a Tuesday, every table was full and the tamales were already gone for the day. La Paloma Taqueria is located at 714 Elm Street and does not currently take reservations. Cash and card both accepted.