MILLBROOK, June 2 — The old Calloway Ironworks building on Sutter Lane has seen a lot over its 110-year history, but it's never smelled quite this good. Roots & Rind, the debut restaurant from chef-partners Paloma Vega and Devon Ashby, opened to a full house Friday night and hasn't slowed down since. The concept is straightforward but demanding: nearly every ingredient on the menu is sourced from farms within 90 miles of Millbrook, and the menu changes weekly based on what's available. Opening weekend's highlights included a roasted beet salad with whipped chèvre from Cloverdale Creamery, pan-seared trout from Harwick River Farms, and a rye berry porridge that had at least three tables asking for seconds.
At a Glance: Roots & Rind
- Address: 440 Sutter Lane, Warehouse District
- Hours: Tue–Sun, 5–10 p.m. (brunch coming in August)
- Price range: Entrées $22–$38
- Reservations: via their website or by phone at (555) 418-2200
Vega, who previously worked the line at acclaimed regional kitchens in Harwick and Port Lennox, said the Millbrook opening felt personal. "This is where Devon grew up, and we wanted to cook food that actually reflects this place — its farms, its seasons, its people," she said during a brief chat between services Saturday. The space itself is a beauty: exposed brick, reclaimed wood tables, and a open kitchen that lets diners watch every plate come together. Food editor's verdict? Go soon, and bring someone you want to impress.
